Yangon - Mawlamyaing
Start ] [ Yangon - Mawlamyaing ] Kalaw  -  Inle ] Pindaya caves - Mandalay ] Bagan - Yangon ] Chiang Mai ] Bangkok ]

 

Up

  

Day 1    AFTGV Brussels – Paris. Flight Paris – Singapore

Day 2   Flight Singapore - Yangon 11.35 h. Very sunny weather. Going through customs without any problem and changing USD into FEC = entry exchange or 200 USD = 200 FEC per person.
We have rent a car with driver, starting day 4 until day 18 by email. Normally a driver from the Three Saesons Hotel would meet us at the airport. But the carcompany: Pacific Nation Travel & Tours decided to meet us at the airport and so it happens, that Mr Hla Myaing and his driver are waiting upon us at the exit. They actually decided, that we may use the car and the driver from the very beginning without extra cost. This is very convenient for us.
We make a short visit to the Three Seasons Hotel, from where we send an email to the family at home. 
Shortly after that, Mr Myaing and the driver drive us to the Bogyoke Aung San Market, because it will be closed on monday - the next day. In the marketplace, we change USD into Kyats at 1 USD = 750 Kyats ( what was told to as before by a Burmanese, during our flight to Yangon ). This is an unexpected benefit, because we estimated the rate at 1 USD = 350 - 400 Kyats
We accept a drink offered by Mr Myaing
and we visit next : the Chaukthatgyi Paya or reclining Buddha, about 50 m long. 
We end the afternoon with a walk around Kandawyi lake and park. As it is sundayafternoon, we insist that Mr Myaing and the driver return to their families. We stroll around and at 6 pm, we are the first guests to enter Karaweik restaurant for dinner and the show. Neither the dinner, nor the show interested us very much - we were apparently too tired after our flight and we had no appetite

Day 3   Yangon. Again very sunny - warm, not hot weather, from our arrival in Myanmar until our departure - never any rain. Only Mandalay has the clock around electrical supply - Tourist center number one. In the capital, there is no electricity from 7 pm until next morning. But the hotel has its own electricity supply.
We meet again Mr Myaing and we pay him more than halve of what was agreed by email. We will pay him the balance on our return in Yangon, after finishing the trip.So, we are rid of a lot of our FEC.
In the morning, we call a visit to Na-Gar Glassfactory. On arrival, we
walk through a huge field of glasproducts between gras and bushes - obviously waste - but at the end, we realised that it were the finished products. The owner is proud of his factory and helpful in explaining the manufactering. We also visit a place, known by the driver, where cigars = cheroots are handmade. These burmese cigars are very mild and often used by women. They contain only a small amount of tobaco, but are mixed with leaves, herbs and roots; on the picture is also a student with her schoulderbag. We will see hunfreds of them on the road, every day, returning home from the school.
We see a temple in the near, where an elephant is shown to the public. This elephant is white and so sacred that it is forbidden to take a picture of it. We also visit the nearby temple.

In the afternoon: the driver has free, while we explore the towncenter: from Botatung Paya to Strand Hotel, taking a  refreshment or a vegatable soup in Mandarin restaurant - we decide to return in the evening -  visiting Maha Wizaya Paya and the nearby Shwedagon Paya. The sunset here is spectecular and we spend several hours to visit every spot of this wonderful world - taking few pictures, much more videofilming.
As we did already a lot of walking, we decide to flag down a taxi to return to the hotel. We get one soon, but after100 meters, we are hold up by the police. The driver had no licence to transport foreigners and he has to pay a huge penalty. When arriving at Sule Paya, he asks us a price for the drive about 25 times the normal one - apparently including the fine - we refuse and pay him the normal price. From here on, we walk to the restaurant.
A man approaches us and he tries to change Kyats for USD, rate: 1 USD = 900 Kyats. But we do not need more at this moment. After a deliceous meal in the Mandarin restaurant, we return to the hotel - we have to get up early next morning, leaving Yangon at 6 am, on our way through Myanmar. 

Day 4    Yangon - Mawlamyine (Mawlamyaing=300.000 people) - 300 km. After a very early breakfast, we leave the very helpful and friendly Three Seasons Hotel. We reach Bago, after a 2 hours drive on a good " western " road. Firtst, we visit a woodcarving area with several shops. Then, the local market to buy food: fruit, water, bread ....followed by a visit of Schwemawdaw Paya. The stupa is 114 m high and over 1000 years old. It is reconstructed in 1954, after it was completely leveled by 3 different earthquakes.
We leave Bago, goodbye " western " road and from now on, day after day, on a huble the buble road to Mottaba. Average speed 40 km per hour with a flat tire every first three days. The roads look like the himallaya, but on a smaller scale.
We arrive in Mottaba in the late afternoon and we pay for the ferryboat. Afer one hour waiting, we receive our money back with the message, that the waterlevel is too low and that there will be no ferry before next morning 6 am at high tide. The driver pushes us in the car to drive us to another place at the river. It is getting dark already. He founds a boat and a boatsman and during sunset, we cross the river for a 20 min, to arrive in Mawlamyaing. With 2 bicycletaxis, we arrive in the Breeze Resthouse. Very clean room, fan, twinbeds, but shared facilities. The driver returns to Mottaba with the same speedboat to take care of the car and the lugage.
Second disappointment of this day: no ferry at 7 am tomorrow to Hpa-an, because the engine is defect. The next boat is at 11 am, but too late for us, because after the 4-hours trip, we will be unable to reach Kinpun and see the boulder stupa at Kyaiktiyo
Third problem: in a few minutes time Peter gets fever and his temperature rises over 39 degrees celcius. He goes to bed for a very bad night - while we have a fine dinner in a restaurant, recommended by the hotel..

Day 5    Mawlamyine - Kinpun: 145 km. 8 a.m.The driver has arrived with the car, after crossing the river with the carferry. Peter has still over 39 degrees, but I decide do go on with the trip as scheduled. This one is so tight, that we can not loose a day or more.
We ask the driver for a short visit to the Payas in town on top of the hill, but he refuses. We leave the town, without having seen anything. The ride to Hpa-an is nice, but missing the scenic boattrip is very disappointing - it had to be a welcome change to our huble the buble returntrip by car, direction Bago
.
After a few stops - a relieve for Peter, a good lunch and a flat tire, we arrive in the late afternoon in the base camp Kinpun. We choose a guesthouse : Hotel San Ceasar, wooden chalets and we take a short rest. Peter has remarkably recovered from his illness. In the meantime our driver has hired for us a whole open truck with benches on . Then, he sells out all the seats and when the truck is full, it leaves and drives up the mountain for one hour or 13 km - the road is narrow, with many short curves. From the truckstop on, we have to climb through woods for another hour or 1000 meters to reach the Golden Rock or boulder stupa; just following the crowds of pelgrims. As Liliane has problems with her knee, she stops halve way and she will wait upon our return. 
A few tourists have hired a sedan chair or palanquin with 4 bearers, to have them carried to the top. However, we noticed that at one fifth from the top, the bears refused to climb furtheron and they turned the seat over, with excessive protest from the tourists involved. Hundreds of pelgrims climb to the top, between many souvenir and foodstalls at the end. We arrive about 20 min before sunset. A wonderful experience to see all the pelgrims, fascinated by the glittering Golden Rock with the stupa on top. Some sleep close to the top, but we return down to truckstop. Liliane is there and the driver, again pays for a whole truck and he sells out the seats. It is completely dark - the driver gives us the money, he won't keep anything for himself, he jumps of the truck and he returns again to the Golden Rock, to stay overnight on this sacred place in meditation.

The return trip down, is rather dangerous, as we are seated on the first bench behind the driverscab. The descent is steep, winding and fast, in complete darkness. It reminds us, that a good friend of us and his girlfriend were killed instantly in Borneo, as they were smashed again the cab during a collision. At the end, we arrive without problems, except that my new trousers did not survive - killed by a nail in the bench.


Day 6   Kinpun - Taungoo 315 km. We leave Kinpun, for a long drive to Taungoo. We make a short stop every noon for lunch in a local restaurant. We do not take an asian meal at noon, well in the evening. We always buy some bread in a local bakery and fruit. We have cheese and marmelade ... from home; but we order a vegetable soup and a drink. The driver always takes a full lunch. But this time, I ordered duck with mushrooms and it was really deliceous.
We expected to find a better road on this main connection between Yangon and Mandalay, but it is awful bad. The speed is often limited to 30 km an hour with bridges, which remember us to the ones in Belgium, built by the canadian army, just after the second world war, the day after the germans blew them up.
It is completely dark, when we arrive in Taungoo and the driver takes us to a new built guesthouse, not the one we planned to take. But we agreed

UP